Do you HAVE a mechanic?? ~
Land Rover and British
15 minutes from U of A or downtown
OPEN 9 to 5 weekdays, with voice mail anytime office is closed
Google Map to us
-- Conveniently located on Palo Verde and I-10 --
Our home page
*** MY ROVER NEEDS AN EXPERIENCED LAND ROVER MECHANIC! ***
Welcome! We believe honesty and ethics are at the heart of your relationship with your mechanic, right after carefully listening to you. We ensure these standards at each level in our shop, particularly by never paying any employee commissions. This ensures that our service objectives of safety, reliability, longevity and cost-effective ownership to prevail. We are not the Tucson Land Rover Dealer, but instead the best dealer-alternative in Tucson, and Tucson's only quality-oriented British car service specialist. No other group here (nor even Royal Land Rover/Jaguar, the new dealer here) is so well experienced and equipped. We are not new-comers, just jumping on the Land Rover bandwagon (like many Tucson European service shops; BMW-Mercedes specialist repair shops). Our crew all know Rover trucks ... for decades. We hop right to the problem, since we've likely seen it before, rather than learning-how, like our competitors do - on your dime. We use Genuine Rover Parts at competitive prices combined with less expensive after-market parts whenever appropriate. In addition to Land Rover and Range Rover we offer experienced repair service for Alfa Romeo, Jaguar, most other English cars, including Lotus and Aston Martin. Bring us what the other shops are afraid of. We do what they can't. Our expertise is in intelligent auto repair, which is Quality workmanship in the truest sense. We refurbish or restore cars too, performed with respect for authenticity and in a competent fashion, whether your car is 5 years old or 75. Schedule an appointment for your car, or for consulting, OR just drop by the shop and meet us. We're on 3 acres, but only 50' wide at the street. Look beneath the billboard for the World Famous Falconworks Tree: Look for all the Jaguars and Rovers!
Alan - Mechanic, Service Adviser every day for almost 30 years, Owner. "I love explaining mechanical stuff in plain simple English to our clients." Nobody is more skilled at the lost art of logical diagnostics, the multi-carb tune-up, or designing problem-solving tools and parts. Land Rover tech since 1976, also Rolls Royce, Alfa-Romeo, Jaguar, Austin Healey, Lotus, MG, Triumph, Volvo, VW, Aston Martin, various aircraft, etc etc. Clock repair to engineering; Machinist. A Tucson native Alan drives his Range Rover Classic, Beater-Edition, daily. He takes his '66 109" full-canvas Land Rover for expeditions and camping... and his old Jaguar, when a truck is inappropriate; flys a 195. "Our crew is a joy, we're not just good enough: we are the best!!"
Bill - Mechanic. Land Rover tech since 1991. Extensive Land Rover and Jaguar credentials, as well as Prius hybrid certs. Ford Factory trained. Technician since 1974. Gives you your full hour, and then some. There is no better line mechanic, bar-none: everything's got to be just so. Bill has been with us over 24 years. With three sons (each with family), he's a family man beyond compare. Originally from the Midwest, he vowed-off snow ... for life. Drives a 300k-mile '80's Ford Mustang "T" top without AC for his 50-mile round trip to work ... but also has a carbon-outfitted late-model Mustang Mach 1, and .... a red Mustang Cobra ... and a black Boss 302 Laguna Seca edition factory track Mustang .... and the new 350R has just arrived from Ford ...
Dylan - Mechanic. Patient, calm, careful, honest, sincere, thoughtful. In this young man we've been lucky to find exactly what we need, molding a new world-class specialist technician especially for you. Always open to learning something new in the trade, he is remarkable. He enjoys restoring vintage turntables in his spare time, and values time with family. He drives some silly practical white car, like an Acura, or something.
Holly - Reception. She is our customer-service representative, and excellent at providing for you a level of commitment few other facilities will offer. Also very good at sourcing Land Rover and Jaguar parts. She's a mom, and in her spare time enjoys exploring Arizona ghost towns and mining camps, and camping. Not sure what to think about this, but she -- still -- drives a Chevy pickup.
- Our new apprentice. So far so good! Doesn't live
life with his face in a smartphone; sits reading a paper book
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SPECIAL ROVER PROBLEM SOLVERS TODAY:
*Problem: Driver's door lock cylinder spins 'round and 'round, Disco 2:
Thin little pot-metal rod breaks between the door lock cylinder in Discovery II, (where the key goes in) and lock actuator inside the door. We make a solid brass one that is much stronger. Better design and better materials. Click here to see one.
*Problem: Rover-Madness. Disease, applicable to owners and admirers of all models:
Sorry to say, but after four decades of research we have established, not only that Rover Madness is incurable, but that it continues to be contagious. Symptoms of the infliction involve things like selling one's beloved Land Rover, swearing "I will never own another money-pit Land Rover again!" only to bring us another one, just weeks later for a pre-buy inspection, saying, "my daughter will be driving soon and I need to get a safe car for her." Of course it's not for you. Not really. Of course you're not off the wagon ... not yet. There is no rational basis for this behavior. But it is very clear the diseased cannot bear to be far from a Land Rover for more than a few days. It is similarly clear that infecting a friend, lover, or offspring, especially when suffering withdrawal, is -- zombiesque -- utterly irresistible. Our Problem-Solver advice on this issue? Discard any expectations, accept and love what's around you, even if it is just your old Rover key fob, and your new home under a bridge..
*Problem: Throttle body heater (deicer) keeps warping and leaking, Discovery 2:
We have tried every aftermarket brand, and genuine Land Rover units. They all fail. We have tried all different gasket materials. They all fail. So we now hand-make a solid bronze replacement part. They never fail. It seems expensive, until you factor in the labour to change the heater plate every year or two. Replaces MGM000010K. Click here to see one.
*Problem: Radiator hoses don't last very long, all models serviced at non-Rover-specialist repair shops:
Most non-specialist shops are now claiming they too can repair Land Rover, Jaguar and Range Rover. This is because there is now a nationwide parts wholesaler that makes getting Rover parts easier for Joe's Garage, and online tech-help as well. Problem is the low quality (and high price) of these parts and advice. Most markedly, please steer away from any garage trying to install "ÜRO" brand radiator hoses on your Disco: they are absolute junk. ÜRO hoses ruin the reliability of your vehicle, the one you bought for ... its reliability! On the other hand if they refuse to use ÜRO hoses, this is an easy way to tell that your auto repair shop is a genuine specialist, not a bandwagon fake.
*Problem: Both rear windows stop working ... at the same time ... on Discovery One, or '95 Classic:
We repair intermittent window lift ECUs (computers). Yep, that's the problem: Inside the computer you will find a burned-way solder joint. Typically this takes about 20 minutes on the bench to fix, and turnaround is same day. If you bring the truck in to the workshop and have us remove the unit for repair it will take about an hour. If you like to do things yourself, this one is easy so long as you can solder well: the failed joint will be obvious once the box is removed and opened.
*Problem: Discovery Series 2 ('99 to '04) ABS "shuttle valve switch" fault codes (11,4). Trouble shooting:
*Problem: Discovery Series II "tres amigos"
All three lights at the same time, every time? The only items shared by all three systems (ABS, Hill descent, Traction control) are the shuttle valves and switches, the four wheel speed sensors, and the "SLABS" ECU. SLABS is self-leveling-and-anti-lock-brake-system. Fault codes 11,4 and 11,6, as discussed above, relate to the shuttle valve electrical faults. Make sure there are not wheel speed sensor codes or loose wheel bearings before proceeding.
If the shuttle valves, folks claiming that shuttle valve switches cannot be replaced with any reliability have overlooked the obvious: if the shuttle valves themselves are leaking brake fluid into the switches -- imagine this -- the fluid can be causing the failure in the first place. Rover / WABCO does not supply the seals, but we do. Using our shuttle valve kit assures longer life than changing the switches alone. Land Rover Discovery shuttle valve fault codes from leaky modulators are common. Our repair kits include seals, upgraded "E" clips, and switch assy, and can be mail-ordered here. But please, categorically repair/upgrade the board at the same time you install new shuttle valve switches (see above). Easy to install, but does require modulator removal, and therefore Testbook to clear codes and to actively bleed the brakes afterward.
(Incomplete manual brake bleeds done by big-box brake shops is the major reason many D2 trucks have low and spongy pedals. Air leaks into the brake fluid through weak shuttle valve seals will also cause this fault). Repeat!! Brake bleed procedure on Disco 1 and Disco 2 CAN NOT BE DONE fully without either the Testbook factory computer or perhaps the Autologic knock-off.
BTW, Range Rovers after 89 are very difficult to bleed too, but do not require the proprietary computer. For Range-Rover-specific bleed tricks, and so much more, you gotta have that Range Rover ABS bible.
*Problem: LR3 cooling system bleed valve / Tee fitting broken:
We now make new all-metal (brass) "T" fittings for the top cooling system bleed for LR3. We offer to change them on all our maintenance clients' trucks, and generally when we pull the plastic tee out it comes out in crumbs. Any garage servicing Land Rovers should adopt this practice. Drop by for an upgrade installation, or order just the new LR3 fitting part from us on our Jewell Amber Oil shopping cart site. Here's a photo of a new brass tee installed on an LR3 V8.
*Problem: Nobody prescribes preventative maintenance for Discovery 2 and Range Rover ABS systems:
We recommend changing the ABS pump relay on all Range Rovers, 1990 to 2002, every 90k miles. Also, we suggest replacing the shuttle valve seals in the modulator of the Disco 2 every 60k miles. Range Rovers also need new accumulators every 5 years or so. These are known and predictable wear items -- not flukes. By these preventative measures the cost of ownership is reduced: the cost of repairs if you wait until these actually fail is always higher -- sometimes much higher. Also, in our experience using Ferodo brake pads and Brembo rotors reduces costs in the long run, provides much improved braking, and eliminates brake noise issues: you'll become a happy-camper in a nano-second!
Oh, and ...How about change brake fluid and flushing the system? This is prescribed by most manufacturers about once a year -- but how about not stretching it more than three years?? Fresh fluid is not only much safer because of the increased boiling point of the fluid, but helps prevent corrosion and abrasion wear of the internal brake parts, including the ABS pump, modulator, and booster unit (if fitted).
*Problem: Lug nuts with deformed stainless caps (so called "chrome lug nuts"):
We call these covers "happy caps." Often they are not so happy at all. On the roadside (or in the shop, for us) the operator will not be happy either. Unless you're enamored with the chromy look (in which case we can sell you new nuts for 20-something$ each) we recommend removing the caps. They press or tear right off. After the first few you'll get the hang of it (we charge about $40 to do all 20). Beneath them lie perfectly functional and reliable plated lug nuts. Carry a 26mm socket for the real nut behind the thin veil. Alternatively, black lugnuts without Happy Caps from an early Classic will fit all Classics, Disco 1, and Defender.*Problem: Leaky Range Rover Classic steering pump:
We keep seal kits for both early and late versions of Hoburn Eaton power steering pumps found on Range Rovers through 1995. Also, if not exploded, the ZF pumps on Discovery Series 1 can be re-sealed. If you prefer, we also offer a rebuilding service in-house for these pumps. Please call for pricing and turnaround.
*Problem: Rear step won't retract, Discovery Series 1:
The cylinder (gas spring) which hold these up is only available with the purchase of a whole new step. So we offer a new gas spring kit which is a good direct replacement, but which takes a generic spring. Looks and feels like the original, and new cylinders are totally available once converted. Available online.
*Problem: Plastic window regulator rollers for Discovery 1 and Disco 2 are always breaking at the most inopportune time:
Disco window regulators usually just break their little plastic rollers. One new regulator installed, and there goes nearly a couple hundred bucks! The rear windows use only one roller per side and most commonly fail. We manufacture new metal rollers and sell them with installation instructions. Made from 6061T6 aluminum, these are perfect replacements and you'll never revisit this problem again! The cost of one roller installed on a rear window regulator is less than a new regulator with a failure-prone plastic roller. Most of our sales are to garages, dealers, and serious owners, and were recently featured in Overland Journal. (Order one metal roller or get a discount for quantities).
*Problem: Do I need to replace the whole ABS brake pump (Classic and New (P38) Range Rover)?
For known-bad power brake pumps we made this buying-guide page to help remove confusion about such options as, "would you like a switch with that?"
When these pumps are noisy or weak they are not necessarily bad: these are symptoms of when the brakes are not properly bled for example. If the accumulator (sphere) has failed the debris from the unit can be distributed throughout the system and a complete bleed is a must. But, if after a complete bleed 'by the book' the pump runs fine but will not develop sufficient pressure, or makes scratchy noises, the problem is still probably not the pump: Before the inlet line on P38's, and within the pump body on Classics, there is an inlet screen. Check whether it is clogged. Many perfectly good pumps have been changed because of this problem. Remember to always use the same brake fluid!! Blending brake fluids often results in forming gelatin and blocking screens. The DOT4 rating does NOT define compatibility. DOT5 silicone fluid is damaging.
Still not sure whether to buy a new pump? Probably best to get more information on this, and like this: please buy the Range Rover brake system Bible (right below), which includes bleed procedures and techniques in detail. We generally have rebuilt pumps for P38a on hand if necessary.
Want to rebuild your own Range Rover ABS brake pump instead of having us rebuild it? We do make and sell some of the parts you'll like likely need, including brush-holders and armatures.
*Problem: Range Rover ABS Brake system: I need information, technical help, tips, repair techniques, like now!
So many are overwhelmed by Range Rover ABS brakes that we had a book written to clarify the system for people. On web sites like Rangerovers.net there are many snippets of information, many risky tips and advice, but no basic explanation of the ABS brake system which leaves the reader any less confused or intimidated. To solve that problem, for independent garages and Rover owners alike we now offer the complete Range Rover ABS Brake Book, available as a quick download. No Range Rover owner should submit their truck to a repair shop and trust to the outcome, unless they at least know the basics, or they will almost certainly waste money on unnecessary repairs. Go to the dealer armed, get out your wrenches armed, or shop for a competent independent mechanic in your area for service for your Range Rover armed with information! Diagnostics, faults, typical symptoms, and a plain-language overview make this paper the absolute authority on Range Rover ABS brakes. Background information in it makes it fully meaningful to the non-technician as much as to the initiated. Buy the only WABCO ABS 'Bible'. New revision now available.
*Problem: Broken plastic distributor upper spindle retainer (under rotor arm)
These fit all distributor type Disco and all Classic Range Rover. When the rotor is rusted on and finally comes off, the pull often breaks the brittle nylon button that holds the advance mechanism together. The old nylon button has never been supplied separately by either Lucas or Rover. We offer a new Teflon® button for sale. For purposes of periodic lubrication of the auto-advance mechanism, which really helps gas mileage and power, our buttons, unlike the original, can be reused many times.
*Problem: Discovery 1 door lock button keeps falling down and re-locking the door
Holding the sill lock button up to be able to open the door?? Discovery doors, usually the rear sides and rear hatch, become intermittent, locking themselves when the door is slammed, or on rough road, or failing to unlock on the power locks. Also, if the one in the driver's door is at fault the doors might lock and unlock with no rhyme or reason - repeatedly. A small special spring has broken inside the latch in the door. Instead of replacing the entire latch assembly, we make and fit a new spring for the old latch: call for price, plus shipping. This, of course, includes a thorough cleaning, adjustment and lubrication of the unit. Turnaround is one business day.
Perhaps this should be under FAQs below: No, we do not have a pattern spring to sell you. Sorry. We make them up to fit the latch. To do it yourself just buy a spring of the same wire gage and diameter, cut out the bit you need, form the ends, and fit it. That's all we do.
*Problem: Air suspension pump faults ((P38) New Range Rover)
Noisy or weak air compressor? We offer new piston seals, and upgraded stainless steel cylinder bores. We also post Air Suspension tips, Technical details, services, and otherwise unavailable parts here!
If you would like us to rebuild your EAS compressor, cost depends on the level of damage. Beats a sharp-stick-in-the-eye, 3/4 used-up used pump, every day.
*Problem: There's no diagnostic test procedure for Discovery 1 Cruise
Factory manuals for Discovery 1 omit the simple sequential procedure for conclusively diagnosing cruise control faults. For an easy walk-through in plain English, you can buy as a download our handy complete pamphlet.
*Problem: Disco Instrument surround busted
Send us your broken instrument surround, and as many of the pieces as you can find, and we can usually fix it quite nicely for less than $75. If you want to try it yourself, use Weldon® #3 as the bonding agent, and Lexan® for the missing bits and added structure. We also do many seat bases and Classic radio surround/fuse box holders, and fuse box covers this way too. We cannot quote these without seeing the remnants however.
*Problem: carburetor carberator carburettor carbureter, or just say "carb" like everyone else ... throttle shaft bore is hosed. Who can do a bore and bush repair, or complete overhaul, without butchering my carbs???
Our carburator overhauls are the best, bar none, cosmetically and functionally. We also can just bore and bush for you, if you like, all 5/16" and 8mm throttle shaft bores which are worn out. Worn throttle shafts and bores result in irregular, inconsistent, and unnecessarily fast idle (tick over). We rebush using a thinwall high-copper alloy bronze with exceptional wear and toughness characteristics. These can subsequently be replaced if needed. The most common applications are SU carbs, but we see some Weber and aircraft Stromberg carbs with regularity too. Please feel free to email the workshop with any questions about our carburettor services.
*Problem: New Range Rover (P38a) main fuse box
If your relays have that well-baked appearance on their lower sides, and those circuits are extraordinarily intermittent, the fault actually lies in the fuse box itself, not just the relay. This is the heart of your truck's electrical system, and often affects Air Conditioning, Engine Management, ABS and Air Suspension leading to fault codes, confusion, and costly and unnecessary computer diagnostics. Check that the connectors below the board are not loose, or the board below the relay melted. If so, the heat is from a bad solder connection inside the box. New ones have become so reasonable in price that repair is no longer the best option. Sorry. Just have us order a new one for you.
for more random Land Rover pix ... click these!
Interesting car, truck, and airplane links to check out:
Q: Why do you take the time to fix parts when new ones are still available?
A: First it is often more cost effective. Second, the new part usually has the same fatal flaw, and intelligent repairs can often reduce the odds of a similar failure.
Q: Are you an artist's group?
A: No. But we are the very best at what we do.
Q: I drove by 15 times and can't find you. How do I find you ... like in person?
A: Slow down? No mystery: we are a stationary target. Look for the World Famous Falconworks Tree or the billboard (see photo above). Don't be fooled by the dirt parking lot (actually it' is paved, but Pima County DOT drains Palo Verde across it, so it's impossible to keep clean), or by the fact that you can't find our sign until you've stopped ... and gotten out of your car.
Also, remember that there's NO traffic in our area, compared with say ... oh ... anyplace else in Tucson. Allow 15 minutes from UofA to Falconworks at rush hour for example; 25 minutes from Ina and La Cholla; ten minutes from Davis Monthan; ten minutes from ElCon; 15 minutes from Raytheon-Airport facility; ten minutes from Downtown.
Q: Don't you need a special proprietary computer for many diagnostics, and even some of the repairs on newer Rovers and Jaguars?
A: Yes. And we have the most current software for all diagnostics, programming, and "flashing", just like the Dealer. We use the Factory Land Rover tool. But there are after-market knock-offs available -- such as the inferior Rovacom and Snap On with European upgrades -- those which more generic European repair garages, those who pretend to compete, can afford. We also use another premier aftermarket tool when needed, our AutoLogic is superior to the factory tool in many ways, giving us increased flexibility the Dealer is not able to offer.
Q: What's up with your facility's unusual location?
A: We provide a unique top-end service, and are sought-out by folks we serve, from all over. People come from Saddlebrook to Sonoita, Phoenix to El Paso and even Hermosillo, from downtown to Vail, so we are nobody's neighborhood garage. Our shop offers us some very important features without which our product would be incomplete.
Q: My Range Rover Classic (or Disco, or Jag) headliner is falling down, can you fix it?
A: No. We do not perform paint & body work, nor upholstery repairs. Locally, in Tucson, we can recommend a small, fair, highly skilled trim shop for that headlining however. We have worked with the owner/operator for over 40 years. Andy is the best, and we hope to never need to look for a replacement. His Tucson Tops is a European car specialist and does convertible top repair and replacement, to worn leather seats, to ... well ... falling down Classic headliners.
Q: Is Rover-Madness hyphenated?
A: Optional. Similar meaning. Either way it describes a terminally afflicted individual. A hyphen only serves to release some of the onuss from the psychiatric community, it would seem, and place increased burden on codependents, and enablers such as Falconworks Land Rover Repair.
Q: You're really not that off-Broadway theater artists' group, then? Uhhhh ... Hmm ... So what does Falconworks mean?
A: No. "Falconworks" is indeed a place, but one in Tucson, Arizona. It is named after the one in England (Falcon Works, London Road, Isleworth Middlesex) where Archie Frazer-Nash made sports cars in the '20s, '30s and early '50s. Interestingly, it was also home to the first Porsche Dealership in the UK. They were talented and inventive folks who worked there and we show our respect for them by christening our facility with the namesake of theirs. As for us, here's an exceedingly long story of our origins in Tucson.
Q: How much is an oil change?
A: Perhaps you mean 'what is included in an oil change?'
We need to know from you whether you really want only an 'oil change', or whether you actually mean a 'Service'. We need to know whether you expect wiper blades and spare tire air, and the other things you don't think of ... to be checked. We call that a 'checklist Service', and it DOES cost more than an oil change >>> We could lie to you as others do, but we don't >>> If you think that jiffy quicky lube is actually checking all those other things on the ("hundred point") checklist, and in only 20 minutes, me thinks you're in denial; just meet their 'man behind the curtain' if you don't believe us.
There is not a midas lube pit whatever oil change place on the PLANET that has ever checked the pressure of a spare tire, lubed a door latch or a drive shaft as part of even their most "premium", grossly overpriced oil service; not a single one. They don't even use oil squirt cans: ask 'em to show you one if you don't believe us! If you ever waited in their lobby or waiting room for a Premium Service -- and they really did it -- you'd be there the better part of day; if they did one in an hour, you really got ripped off: plain and simple.
Further, at Falconworks quality is king. We use only top grade materials. Into your auto, from sealed containers (we NEVER use bulk oil), just the motor oil itself (Castrol® GTX or Syntec, depending on engine type and mileage between services) and the genuine quality (Rover/Jaguar/Toyota) oil filter, cost more than the whole so-called service at the quicky lube place.
Q: What is the difference between maintenance and repair?
A: Repair is what we do to vehicles which don't get maintenance.
See Also: "How much is an oil change", above, or just Google 'flatbed towtruck Tucson'.
Q: Does the "check-engine" light (AKA "service engine soon") indicate an impending Service interval.
A: No. It means it thinks something having to do with the engine's management systems has gone wrong. If it runs badly, or there are also other error messages, it should be diagnosed immediately ... perhaps even towed into the authorized repair agency (such as Falconworks). Otherwise get it to the shop for a computer diagnostic scan as soon as reasonably possible. Make sure the shop you choose has the proprietary diagnostic computer for your auto, not just a generic one. We have those for Land Rover and Jaguar through 2018, and Toyota through 2014.
Q: Are you cheaper than the Dealer?
A: Usually a little bit. But please don't come to us looking for a cheaper job, just for a better value.
A Discovery II front drive shaft, for example, at Falconworks will cost about half what it does at Royal. Also we use a much-upgraded part and our more qualified labor; similarly our average 'Tres Amigos' brake warning lights is about half what the Land Rover Dealer will charge. But while 10% to 20% less at Falconworks is more the norm ... still usually more than makes up for the "FREE" loaner car.
Further, we do different things well. Dealers know the warranty squeaks and rattles of the new cars; we know where to put the grease to keep them going beyond 75k miles on the clock.
Q: My brakes squeak and squeal. Sometimes I can't stand it. Is there anything which can be done, and if expensive, is there anything which must be done?
A: Most brake lining inspections are free. If the linings are good, we will advise that if you want to live with the noise and avoid the expense, it will be ok. Usually the quality of the brake linings installed (known as "pads") is the main cause of noise - not wear or hazard. If you saved $20 on your last brake job (at the likes of Pep Boys, Brake Max, Brake Masters, Midas, Wal-Mart Auto, etc.) you were sold cheap pads which can be noisy or ineffective. Another common problem we often see is caused by the amateur installers these places use: a pad in backwards often works OK and is safe, but makes noise. You would be amazed at how often we see brake linings installed backwards, or without correct cleaning, new hardware and lubrication. Some higher quality pads, such as the ones we use at Falconworks (Ferodo or Jurid for example) use a different material for the last 1/4 of the lining thickness which may make noise only when badly worn - as a safety warning. On most Rovers, Priii, and Jaguars we will inspect your pads for FREE, so please stop by if you are concerned: its no big deal - no worries please. Also, and perhaps most importantly: WHEN YOU BUY BRAKE PADS INSTALLED AT FALCONWORKS WE WARRANTY AGAINST NOISE! Our 2 year warranty (against ANY defects in workmanship or material) covers noisy brakes too, lest the new pads are already worn out.
Q: How does British car service differ from that of a Honda, or BMW? Why can't the quick lube service my Jaguar or Land Rover as well?
A: Drip pans and kitty-litter. Ah, but really, unique tools are needed, and a genuine understanding of the Brit engineer's mindset. Besides, there is no substitute for experience, and you really benefit from having ours [eons of it] on your side! Our Rover and Jaguar specific diagnostic computers, and other tools, help too. Of course the other European repair places can do most of the work, but their guesswork and minor mistakes WILL cost you more in the end. We KNOW these cars and their quirks: that's why it's worth the trip
Q: The dealer pampers me, at Royal Land Rover/Jaguar their waiting room is five star, free car washes, occasional loaner cars ... what does an independent like you have to offer me?
A: Sincere honesty. A clean, well equipped, highly skilled shop. Value ... which will,on a 30k Service, pay for the Enterprise rental car they claim they will discount for our clients, and pocket some cash too. We work for you! They work for your car's $$. Do you realize how inexperienced their mechanics are, or how motivated they are (by their commission pay) to take advantage of you? We have each been in the Dealer environment - know how it works - and have rejected it. Get a look at the man behind their curtain, if you can, and I am sure you will wish your Land Rover or Jaguar had come to visit Falconworks instead, where the garage is cleaner than our lounge is. We also consider, and advise you about, the wisdom of most repairs - they just put on the blinders and "fix" the car. Remember, please, their ultimate objective is to sell you a new car; ours is not. How many bogus head gasket and rear main seal jobs do you really need to buy?? Do you want gloss, or do you want skill, communication, and honesty? BTW, our warranty is exactly twice theirs. TWICE! Just how confident is Royal in their workmanship? NOT!! And we have 15 years more experience than they do, with which to back it up! Of course we think we're the best, but ... 'K ... we'll reluctantly get off our soap box now.... and get back to our good work ...
Q: How long have you been at this location?
A: Give or take a few inches, twenty-nine (29) years.***************************************
1 October 2019
SPECIALIST AUTO REPAIR AND SERVICE, ARIZONA ...
Member, ASA (Automotive Service Association).
Supporter of NPR (National Public Radio) on KUAT, APM (Arizona Public Media), and proud supporter of KXCI (Community Radio)
Shop Local: that's us!
5603 S Palo Verde Rd, Tucson; 520-294-3572
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